Travel Guide: Negril - The Caribbean

Negril Beach
photo by: Tommy Lee

The long paved road from the village ran north to Green Island, home to the most of the Jamaican workers in Negril. The road was straight enough to land an airplane on, which was why there were lengths of railroad track standing on end along the side of the road - to discourage drug smugglers from landing on the road to pick up cheap cargos of "herb".

After the local water supply was up-sized in the early 1970's, and an small airport built near Rutland Point, several small hotels appeared mostly catering to the North American winter tourists who liked to spend a week or two getting gently juiced or stoned. There's always the mild Caribbean for swimming, some tennis, reading, nude sun-bathing. There's no surf here. And it's too hot for touch football or baseball.

Vistors to Negril are often amazed at the vast wetlands on the inland side of the main road. The wetlands are protected since they provide the nourishment for the coral formations off-shore. As the coral grows and decays, it provides the coral sand for the beaches. If the wetlands are filled, the coral beaches will wash away.

Jamaican people try to be hospitable to the tourists, but it's not really in their bones. They try, but they're not great hosts. They don't know how to make a good cup of coffee, even though they grow some of the world's finest. Some of the street "higglers" are too persistent in trying to get you to buy their trinkets. Some of the youth are too rude (they like being rude). On the other hand, the local cops really like slapping rude boys. And Jamaicans sure know how to drink. So it all seems to find a seedy equilibrium that sort of works.

You can rent a car in Montego Bay (right-hand drive) and do the two-hour journey yourself. The road signs are all in English (Jamaicans say "Hinglish"), but the local cows also use the same road. Or you can take the scheduled airplane service (about 15 minutes) from Montego Bay.

Negril is pretty primitive when compared to uptown Jamaica. You'll need to go the other way, east of Montego Bay, to find championship golf courses, for instance, or horse-back riding. For horse-racing, cricket test matches, football, or car races, you'll need to bite the bullet and go to Kingston. But Negril is just fine for two weeks of mucking about on the beach, with drinks at noon, watching the sunsets, reading, and watching stuff on the barbeque. Especially if it's snowing back home!

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